Bouldering and Bolt Clipping in Bishop, Rain in Joshua Tree

I'm still fighting for a Paramedic job, so I've been busy filling my free time with climbing.

I spent Thursday through Tuesday two weeks ago in Bishop. I stayed with Robyn, a friend from college who lives and works in Bishop for USGS. She hosted a fun costume party at her house Friday night.

I climbed one day in the Buttermilks and another in the Gorge with James. I hadn't been in the Buttermilks in a many years. It was fun exploring the incredible boulders, gawking at the famous lines, and climbing a few classics. The Gorge was also great. After warming up, James suggested Thieves in the Temple (5.12a) at Staying Power Towers, a line he had been on once before. He hung the draws with a couple takes, I led with a couple falls, we rested, then both redpointed. Very cool. We finished the day on Blood Sugar Sex Magik, a 16 bolt, 150 foot, 10d that goes on forever.

I climbed the second half of the weekend in the Gorge and in the Happy Boulders with Robyn and her friend Kenyan. We spent the Day in the Gorge at the Great Wall of China. I was especially psyched to onsight Wrath of Khan (5.11c), another tall monster with two mid .11 cruxes. The Happies were also fun, but no notable sends. Robyn had a fancy new camera and snapped some cool photos...


Owens River Gorge


Kenyan on Venom (5.11c)


Me in the Happies

I climbed last weekend in Joshua Tree. I climbed Saturday and Sunday with Lauren, Wylie, and Tricia. I am still in the area, and had planned to climb today, but got rained (read: poured) out. Saturday, Lauren and I got a late start but managed three routes before dark. Sunday, all three of us joined another group to explore Queen Mountain, which resulted in lots of hiking and not much climbing. Lauren snapped a few photos...



Joshua Tree NP from the approach to Queen Mountain


I hang and Lauren patiently belays on an unknown thin face (5.13-?) at Queen Mountain


Wylie

I've been managing a minor to moderate lower back injury for a couple months. It had almost fully recovered when I messed it up again last week in the gym on the leg press. Stupid... Also, I'm managing about ten different applications for Paramedic jobs. Frustrating....

Joshua Tree New Year

I kicked 2010 off right with a trip to Joshua Tree and San Diego.

My friend Lauren was moving from The Bay to Temecula for work, so we transformed her work-funded move into a vacation. We split the drive in halves, which was super nice, putting us in Joshua Tree on Wednesday, the 30th. We climbed and camped in The Tree through the 2nd, then relaxed for an evening in San Diego before I flew back north.

Camping in The Tree can be a bitch over New Years, but we lucked out. Christina and Dan, friends from Berkeley, had reserved a giant group site at Sheep's Pass. We camped in perfect weather and made new friends.

The climbing also couldn't have been better. Lauren and I climbed some classics and dogged a few top ropes before NYE. Then, on New Year's Day we climbed with my buddy from Davis, Casey Chambers, who I hadn't seen or climbed with since New Year's Day 2009. Casey had some ideas for climbing in the Echo Rock Area, but, out of giggling stupidity, we skipped all the classics and climbed a few routes which didn't make the guidebook. I put up a dirty, hanging hands/fist flare and Casey rocked a ~120' dirty seam/sloper traverse. We'd like to think they're FAs, and would suggest Poop (5.10b) and Bloody (5.10c) for names and grades, but due to their locations and obvious lines, I'm sure they've been done before.

Before bailing for showers in San Diego on the 2nd, Lauren and I joined Christina, Dan, Doug, and Lisa on O'Kelley's Crack (5.10c) for a cold morning beat-down. Christina and I both led the beast, whose 5.11 start moves proved frustrating and painful to all.

A great trip, happy 2010! Pictures...

Lauren and I atop Intersection Rock

My lead, Casey and Lauren follow, unknown (5.10- ?), Echo Rock area

Casey and I on unknown traverse (5.10+ ?), Echo Cove area

Christina on O'Kelley's Crack (5.10c)

Me on O'Kelley's Crack (5.10c)

I don't have much work in January, so I hope to climb a bunch. I'll be spending a long weekend in Bishop later this week. Hopefully I'll have sick sends to report.

Nutcracker!

My little brother started climbing recently. He's a student at CSU Chico. A new recreation facility recently opened there, where he pulls plastic and has met a community of climbers. He's been climbing a bit outside on his own, mostly bouldering and topropes on sport routes. He asked me to take him climbing earlier this week, so I decided it was important to make a trad climber out of him.

We spent Monday through Wednesday in Yosemite. Conditions were perfect; a bit cold at night and in the shade, but perfect on the South facing sunny crags. We climbed Monday on El Cap Base, Tuesday we did Nutcracker (5.8, 5 pitches), and Wednesday we were at New Diversions before returning to the Bay. We both had a great time. I got to climb a bunch of easy classics which I had never been on before, and Andrew got to experience his first multipitch and trad in Yosemite. Pretty awesome...

Here are a few photos...

Andrew follows Nutcracker (5.8, 5 pitches)

Manure Pile Buttress over-under Summit Shots

Andrew follows New Deviations (5.9)

Cookie Cliff

I made a quick trip to The Valley yesterday with Garreth. We hoped to climb today also, but were forced home by rain and snow this morning.

We climbed at Cookie Cliff yesterday. I lead Catchy (5.10d) and Catchy Corner (5.11a), two great pitches which Garreth got to check out for the first time. Next Garreth put up the first pitch of The Enema, a cool chimney/offwidth/fist crack combo to a short squeeze flare. My ass got worked on the business pitch, a very steep crack with diorite jugs to a lightly overhanging hands/fist flare. We got one more pitch on Outer Limits before running out of daylight.

I've been to the Cookie many times, and done all these routes before, but I've still got a lot to do there. I'd like to redpoint Cookie Monster, The Enema, Waverly Wafer, Butterballs, and Butterfingers. I also still need to try Crack A-Go-Go, Twilight Zone, and Red Zinger. What a crag...

I haven't heard from South Lake yet, still hopeful...


Garreth follows Catchy Corner (5.11a)



The Enema (5.11b)

Update

I haven't posted in a while, but I've been busy and have done some climbing. My last post was after a visit to South Lake Tahoe with Andy and Phil. While in South Lake, I tested for Firefighter/Paramedic with South Lake Tahoe. I passed the test and returned for a panel interview two weeks later. The panel interview went well, but due to rumored budget problems, I didn't anticipate hear from them for a while. I made plans to go to The Creek for three weeks. I would still be there now, but a few days after the panel I received a call inviting me back for a chiefs interview. I canceled my plans for The Creek, picked up a few shifts at the gym, and prepared for the interview instead. The chiefs was last Monday. I was one of six interviewed for one immediate position. I felt the interview went well, and am really excited about the position. South Lake Tahoe....Firefighter and transporting Paramedic...so sick! Maybe I'll hear from them this week...

I made it to the Valley for two days last week. I planned to climb with Wylie, a friend I made in Indian Creek last Spring, and have climbed with since. He was staying in Camp 4 for a few weeks, but caught the Swine Flue and couldn't climb. Instead, I climbed the first day with Chris VanLeuven and friends at Blowhole, a spot he was researching for his book. He led one two pitch runout 5.10+ slab, I led another, and three other friends followed, jugged, and took some photos.

The second day I climbed with Meg and Ned, her coworker, at El Cap Base. I warmed up by onsighting the first pitch of the Salathe (5.10c). It's a fun, thin set of double cracks, for 35m+. Next, I volunteered to lead Ahab (5.10b), a overhanging flaring offwidth in a dihedral with about 40m of sustained awesomeness. Meg was disgusted, but Ned was psyched to follow. I put it up with two hangs, and Ned followed clean. I think I could redpoint next time. We toproped Mody Dick (5.10a) from the anchor and called it a day. Meg took photos, and got some good ones, but hasn't been able to retrieve them from her camera. I'll post them when they arrive.

I've been working a lot at the gym; behind the desk, teaching private lessons, and running a few lead clinics. I don't have any other photos to post, so check this out...



Garreth and I are trying to climb in the Valley this week, Wednesday and Thursday. Hopefully the weather will hold. I'd be psyched to get on Ahab again, maybe climb The Enema, Red Zinger, or Butterballs at The Cookie, or stuff at Arch Rock.

South Lake Tahoe

I climbed this weekend, Friday through Sunday, in South Lake Tahoe. Andy joined me for the trip. We climbed at Eagle Lake Cliff, up the canyon from Emerald Bay on Friday. I put up
Quest for Glory (5.10d) and Space Truckin' (5.10a). We top roped a gnarly chimney, Separated Reality (5.8). And I got spanked with an onsight attempt of Space Walk (5.11c). I'd been to Eagle lake Cliff twice before, and I'm psyched to return for more routes and more work on Space Walk.

Phil met us Saturday morning and we went sport climbing at Luther Rock. Conditions changed through the day and we constantly battled the cold, but we had a great day.

We camped Saturday night at the East end of the Leap with plans to climb Sugarloaf on Sunday. But, as we prepared to go to sleep that evening, it started snowing. By morning four inches had accumulated on insulated surfaces and about an inch stuck on the ground. Shut down from climbing the Loaf, we drove back to the Bay and did a few gym routes before calling it a day.

Here are some photos...


Andy follows Quest for Glory (5.10d)


Me putting up the very cold warm-up, Moonshine (5.10c)


Phil on Happy Hour (5.11b)


Andy on Daily Prayer (5.10c)


Snow!

Also, on Saturday, I tested for Firefighter/Paramedic with South Lake Tahoe Fire Department. The test went really well, and I'm psyched. They only tested about 60 applicants and plan to interview 15 for 3-4 immediate positions. The interviews are to be scheduled for next Friday, so I hope to hear the results from the test today or tomorrow. Working in South Lake would allow for lots of climbing...

Seattle Adventure and Index Climbing

I joined a great group of college friends this weekend for an adventure in Seattle. Adam, Chris, Erin, Jenna, and I flew to visit Nate for the weekend. I stayed to climb on Monday and Tuesday.

We spent the weekend days hanging out on the water of Lake Union, the Puget Sound, and near the Port of Everett and spent the nights drinking more than necessary. Then, Nate and I rehydrated and climbed for two days at Index. On Monday, we linked Davis-Holland (3 pitches, 5.10b/c) and Lovin' Arms (3 pitches, 5.10c) on Upper Town Wall. On Tuesday we linked Godzilla (5.9+), City Park (P2, 5.10b), and Sloe Children (5.10d). Then we climbed Thin Fingers (2 pitches, 5.11a). Everything we did was classic...a great quick visit to Index.

Here are some photos from the weekend.

Me, Jenna, Nate, Erin, Chris, and Adam

The Boys

Nate leads Davis-Holland, P2

Pulling the roof on Davis-Holland, P3

Nate follows Lovin' Arms, P2

Summit Shot

West Face Leaning Tower Solo

I had no plans this week, Wednesday through Friday, so I went climbing.

I got to the Valley noonish on Monday and racked for a solo ascent of the West Face of Leaning Tower (C2F 5.7). I tried to do the West Face last year with Garreth, but our timing sucked. We humped all our gear out the ledge in time to watch two old guys move slower than molasses up the first pitch bolt ladder. Rather than climb behind them, we bailed. But this attempt, my timing couldn't have been better. While on the approach, two guys passed me on their way down. They said there was no one else anywhere on the wall. I was psyched.

I climbed the first four pitches to Guano and Ahwahnee ledges, linking two and three, then linked and fixed five and six on Monday afternoon, finishing slightly after dark. I spent the night on Ahwahnee ledge and woke with the sun Tuesday morning. I cleaned five and six, climbed seven, linked eight and nine, and finished up ten and eleven by early afternoon.

Overall, the climb went really well. The leading and hauling was relatively easy, but I did take a decent whipper off P3. I had clipped a fix nut and cleaned my piece below. When I stepped up into the piece, the cable broke. I fell about 30 feet, but it was really clean and the modified GriGri worked fine. Other than that, the climb went without incident. It was a lot of work...my shoulder is a bit sore, but with some rest I think it will be fine.

Here are some photos and a video.



Pitch 1


Ahwahnee and Guano Ledges


Ahwahnee (Ledge) for the Night


Cleaning Pitches 8 and 9

Leaning Tower from Todd Bartlow on Vimeo.

Chimney Rappels

Positive Vibrations

About two months ago, before I returned from my road trip, my friend Tresa contacted me suggesting we climb a route on the Incredible Hulk. The Hulk is a huge alpine granite face high above Twin Lakes and Bridgeport, CA. Tresa had intended to suggest we climb Red Dihedral, a classic .10b on the fractured right side of the face. But, before she could make her intended route known, I got her psyched to climb Positive Vibrations. Positive Vibes is a steep and sustained .11a which follows the more splitter cracks on the left side of The Hulk.

We drove to Twin Lakes and hiked in to the rock on Friday, building a good base camp for our weekend of climbing. The rough idea was to climb Positive Vibes on Saturday and Red Dihedral on Sunday.

We got up with the first sun on Saturday morning, ate, and grabbed our gear for the route. As we scrambled the scree to the base of Positive Vibes another team was finishing the pitch one-two linkup. I also linked pitches one and two, climbing a few heads-up .10b-.10c finger/tips cracks in time to share the belay for a few minutes with the other team. Pitch three climbed a chossy left corner above a few roofs then traversed right across a hollow flake with a .11a stem to the belay. Tresa led pitches four and five, a crack in a tight dihedral and a traverse to a straight splitter with a few long waits in the intense cold behind the other team. I led pitch six, a thin seam in a dihedral with questionable thin pro to a .10c offwidth/thin hands roof and a .10d finger crack on a blank face. I stopped early on pitch six and led the .11a thin crack face boulder problem as the beginning of pitch seven, which continued with 180' feet of mostly thin hands splitters. Pitch eight, another 200' of splitters, put us on the summit ridge. This finished Positive Vibrations itself, but we still had three pitches of 4th class traversing and two pitches of .8-.9 to the summit.

Positive Vibrations was awesome. Other then a bit of choss and hollow rock, the route followed incredible sustained cracks in dihedrals and up blank faces. I was really psyched to onsight the route and consider it one of my proudest sends to date. But, the day wasn't all fun. We spent a lot of time in cold wind low on the route while climbing and waiting for the other team. By the time we made it to the summit ridge it was late in the afternoon. The summit traverse and top out sucked, with lots of difficult route finding on shitty rock and not much fun climbing. We summited just before sunset and hustled down the ridge to the single rappel into the gully. It got dark as we descended the gully and scree to camp, and by the time we got there we were both thoroughly spent. It went without much saying, Sunday was to be a late morning and return to the Bay...Red Dihedral would have to wait.



Approaching, Incredible Hulk in the Background


Cold Start and Linking P1 and P2


Tresa Follows the P3 .11a Stem


Tresa on P4


Tresa on P5, the beginning of endless splitters


Tresa on P6

Tresa follows Positive Vibrations (P6, 5.10d fingers) from Todd Bartlow on Vimeo.

Pre and Post Crux


Summit Ridge


Summit Shots

Tuolumne with Wylie

Alright, I have decided to continue to use this blog to report on rock climbing adventures...post epic road trip.

Since I got back from to the Bay in late July, I've been out three times. I've climbed twice at the Leap. The first visit to the Leap was a spur of the moment solo trip. I roped soloed Surrealistic Pillar (5.7, 3 pitches) and Corrugation Corner (5.7, 3 pitches). I hadn't rope soloed before, but I recently modified my GriGri, and it was good to play with the systems. I hope to solo aid some walls in the Valley later this season.

The second visit to the Leap was with Elliot. We climbed Haystack (5.8, 3 pitches) and East Corner (5.11b, 3 pitches) on the first day. Day two we linked The Grove (5.8, 2 pitches) and Corrugation Corner (5.7, 3 pitches). I've done Corrugation about six times now, but Elliot had never done it before. It's classic...he was psyched. Sorry, no photos.

I spent Tuesday-Friday last week in Tuolumne with my buddy Wylie. I met Wylie in Indian Creek this April. He is working as a Backcountry Ranger in Inyo Nation Forest in the Whitney District this summer, so we met midway to climb at Tuolumne for three days. Tuesday night was interesting. We bivied in the backpackers camp. I awoke in the middle of the night to a bear standing three feet in front of me (insert girly scream and scared shitless photo). On Wednesday we linked Oz (5.10d, 3 pitches) and the Gram Traverse (5.10c, 2 pitches). It's a sick climb that I've been wanting to do for a long time. Here are a few photos.


Oz (5.10d) and Gram Traverse (5.10c)


Wylie on Oz (P1)


Wylie on Oz (P2) with the P3 dihedral and Gram Traverse above...


Wylie follows Oz (P3)...sick!


Gram Traverse

Wednesday night we lucked out. Some climbers that I know are working SAR in Tuolumne this season, so they offered us a place to stay for the night. We camped, campfired, and drank beers there...it was nice. Thursday morning at 1045 Wylie and I lucked out again. We were the first climbers of the day at Daft Dome and had our pick of the routes. We climbed West Crack (5.9, 5 pitches) and swung back around to climb Cooke Book (5.10a, 5 pitches). Photos...



West Crack


Cooke Book

Wylie and I planned to climb On the Lamb Friday, but we arrived at the parking lot and three other teams had the same plan. We decided to climb Tenaya Peak instead, so the question became 'simul or solo?' We soloed and were psyched. We went car to car in 2 hours 25 mins.

I spent Friday night in the Valley visiting friends who were staying in Housekeeping and returned to the Bay Saturday morning.

I am climbing on the Hulk Friday-Sunday this weekend with Tresa. We hope to climb Red Dihedral and Positive Vibrations. TR to follow...